Where Everybody Knows Your Name

April 22,2009

“Making your way in the world today takes everything you've got.
Taking a break from all your worries, sure would help a lot.

Wouldn't you like to get away? Sometimes you want to go
Where everybody knows your name, and they're always glad you came…”

That is the theme from Cheers, but it often seems like the theme from Isla for me.

We arrived mid-afternoon in early March and the welcome sign was out in front of the door at our unit at Punta Piedra; we have stayed there so often that its almost like coming home. Hubby opened the slider and the crash of the surf immediately melted all the stress of traveling from Boston. I had slogged through eight inches of snow in my sockless Crocs just getting to our son’s car for the perilous ride to the airport. Our flight was one of only four that left Logan in that day’s blizzard – we were late taking off, but we did take off! We were so relieved that we splurged for an airline meal. We had booked a direct flight for more $$$, but it was worth it.

Landing in Cancun, I was once again greeted by that special indefinable aroma that I associate with Mexico. It’s kind of sweet and powdery and humid… Through the gauntlet of “information” shills, we made a beeline for the ADO bus. A quick taxi ride from the bus terminal to Gran Puerto and we were aboard the ferry. Once I’m on that upper deck looking at the “Isla Blue” water, you couldn’t scrub the grin off my face.

After a short siesta, we were off to Jax and a warm welcome hug from our friend Henry. We got a quick look at little Henrito’s photo, but tried not to monopolize Henry’s time – after all it was pretty busy and he has to make a living. Then we strolled past Capitan Tony’s house to say Hola. He said that he had just been looking at the photo book we brought him a few years ago – pictures of our colder island, Martha’s Vineyard. We tried to chat with Ivan at Aluxes but the place was closed; in fact, it was hardly ever open during our two-week stay. That first night we saw so many regulars (Jan and Bruce, Jean and Rich, Doreese y Bince…) it was like walking in to Cheers.

Days settled into a predictable routine: watch the sun rise out of the Caribbean, eat breakfast, pick up shells and sea glass, chat with the neighbors, pat Canelo, lounge in the hammock and read, speak Spanglish with Norma while she cleaned the pool, watch the pelicans and frigates soar, try to find the chirping geckos, swim, nap, catch up with Amy… It’s a hard life, but somebody has to do it.

We would usually walk to town for supper. Donna Jane drove by one evening and honked her horn – how did she remember us? Daniel hollered across Medina. We are only on the island for two weeks once a year and yet waiters and storekeepers recognize us!

We made some new friends, reconnected with old ones. Noted the changes (some good, some bad); tried some new restaurants (Mango Café, Café Mogagua, Qubano) and returned to some old favorites – the onion soup at the French Bistro is still spectacular even if you’re eating it in the dark during a short power outage. We ventured to the inner loncherias at the Mercado and found them to be just as good as Alexia & Giovanni's. We walked around Salina Grande one evening. We enjoyed the new malecon. We learned how to conserve water during the Aquakan pump failure. We had dinner at the home of a local friend and felt especially honored by the invitation.

At the end of our stay, we traveled to Isla Holbox. We wanted to see if it could be a replacement if Isla Mujeres becomes overrun by the over-privileged. But although Holbox has its charms, we have decided to return to the place where everyone knows our names: Judy and Don, Island Nana and Hubby.